Mahakua Hacienda San Antonio

Mahakua Hacienda San Antonio is hard to get to, tucked away as it is in unspoilt countryside, but definitely worth the effort. It was built in 1879 by a German expat called Arnoldo Vogel, who made his fortune with a vast coffee plantation that stretched all the way to the Pacific coast. The hacienda was then bought by Sir James Goldsmith in the 1970s and gradually restored to its elegant  former glory.

The hacienda itself, a colonial mansion built largely in the local charcoal-grey volcanic stone, sits at the head of a valley. Directly behind the hotel is a picture-book volcano with a permanent lazy wisp of smoke - an awe-inspiring, if faintly worrying sight. The Hacienda is set in 470 acres within a 5,000 acre working ranch that includes an organic farm and coffee plantation.

A large working aqueduct provides year-round water for the formal gardens inspired by Spain’s famed Alhambra Palace where, along with fig and cypress trees are garden plants like the blue agave, from which tequila is made.

The intricately-tiled 35-metre swimming pool is a cool summer escape and its classical Pool Pavilion serves light meals and drinks during the day.

The roof terrace with its large armchairs and divans is another relaxed setting for board games or satellite TV or staring into the distance.

Escorted horse rides lead you through the adjoining coffee plantation, the dairy and the farm, past lakes brimming with fish, through forests to lush green fields where spectacular views of the two neighbouring volcanoes and their surrounds await. A two to three-hour ride will encompass most scenic points including a photo-stop under the soaring 100ft plants of the unique “Bamboo Alley”. Picnics can be arranged. Those unaccustomed to horses may enjoy a hike through the same area.

There is a sense of great space and freedom here even when full the hotel holds a maximum of just 50 people The 25 suites (including three Grand Suites) are high-ceilinged, with beams and brick vaulting; and all have fireplaces that you are encouraged to light should the mountain evenings become a little nippy. Paintings, plants and ‘objets d'art’are in profusion, seamlessly integrating elements of Asia and ethnic Mexico in the style beloved of Goldsmith. (The estate still belongs to his family.)

Treks and tours can be laid on should you wish to visit the pretty towns of Colima and Comala, the base of the volcano, or the mangrove swamps of the coast. Even non-equestrians might take up the offer of a gentle paseo around the Hacienda's 2,000-hectare working ranch.